Port Antonio, Jamaica
listen to banks
It’s impossible to separate the island of Jamaica from its musical roots. Bob Marley may have died in 1981, but his music still rivals rum as one of Jamaica’s biggest exports. But this Caribbean island has more to it than rastas and reggae. The island’s music scene-- including rocksteady, ska, dancehall, and mento--are all thriving in Jamaica’s hip and happening Portland Parish.
Shuffle Most international flights land at Kingston’s Norman Manley Airport. From there, hop on a puddle jumper for a scenic 20 minute flight over the Blue Mountains to the Ken Jones Air Strip in Port Antonio. Or drive 2 hours along the island’s northeast coast. “Portie” is just out of the way enough to keep out the all-inclusive mega resorts.
Pause The sleek and stylish Trident Hotel is fit for Rock Royalty—it’s where Beyonce and Solange Knowles bunked during a recent Girls Trip. The Trident has spectacular sunset views that pair nicely with rum punch.
Spend your day lounging by the gorgeous infinity pool sipping on a Dread Rider (made with apple and cinnamon infused Jamaican rum, fresh ginger and lime). After dark, it’s all about Mike’s Supper Club. At this glamorous and modern speakeasy you can listen to local jazz musicians while dining on excellent jerked yellowtail.
Don’t miss having lunch at Dickie’s Best Kept Secret, a funky yet fantastic ramshackle restaurant that clings to the coastline. It’s hard to decide which is better at Dickie’s: the spiny lobster or the sea views.
Hipstophipstop
Play Spend an afternoon drifting down the Rio Grande River on a bamboo raft. Floating vendors will sell you a Red Stripe for only $3. Stop mid-float for an unforgettable lunch made by Belinda. Her chicken fricassee, crayfish, and rice & peas make incredible use of the island’s flavors.
Hit the waves at Boston Beach, where the surf is gentle and $25 will buy an hour-long lesson (including board rental). After having worked up an appetite surfing with the locals, head to the Boston Jerk Centre, the birth place of the Jamaican Jerk cuisine. The jerked pork, cooked on a grill made from a split oil drum, is particularly flavorful.
Record Traveling with your band? Arcade Fire rented out the atmospheric Trident Castle and stayed there while recording Reflektor right on the property. Non-musicians can check it by having Sunday brunch at the Castle.
Less than 10 minutes away, the vibe is all work and all play at geejam Hotel & Studios. Drake, Gorillaz, No Doubt, and Amy Winehouse have all recorded here. I stayed in the The Drum & Bass Suite-- located underneath the room where Snoop Dogg changed his name to Snoop Lion while working on his reggae album.
Geejam’s Bush Bar comes alive at night. The Jolly Boys— a “boy band” made up of septuagenarian mento musicians perform here regularly. In addition to folk music, the Jolly Boys do fantastic covers of Winehouse’s “Rehab” and random 80s tunes.
