Vietnam

Country Guide Vietnam

Ilise_harris Vietnam is a place that makes the heart ache. Infinite beauty is underscored by the trauma of successive invasions and wars. Today she sits on the cusp where past meets future; vibrant, buzzing, busy and a go-to destination for many intrepid travelers.

Our home base was Hanoi, staying in the lovely Maison D’Oriente guest house, situated on a quiet street in the otherwise teeming historic Old Quarter. Walking the streets very early in the morning gives you the opportunity to see daily life unfolding. Steaming pots of pho and bright produce awaken the senses. Not your mother’s chicken soup though it may cure what ails you, this bowl is redolent with cilantro and lime, red chilies for the stoic.

hanoi is not easy to navigate. The narrow sidewalks are crumbling and packed with motorbikes, food vendors, and maybe even a tied up chicken. One has to be careful not to trip and fall into a cooking fire. Crossing the street requires the composure of a zombie. With total disregard for stop signs, red lights, cross walks, or even traffic flowing in the same direction, the pedestrian merely walks out into the moving stream of it. Motorbikes laden with livestock, entire families, or building supplies somehow simply swerve around it all.

A true local experience is to go to Cafe Dinh (13 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem) for a ca phe trung. (egg coffee). Climbing up the dark stairs to this smokey little café is a step back in time. This coffee was invented during wartime when milk was unavailable. The unusual medley of butter, cheese, sweetened condensed milk, and a whipped egg results in a decadent treat. For those less adventurous, high tea at the Metropole Hotel is a glamorous experience. Another dessert well worth indulging in is xoi yen, warm sticky rice with coconut ice cream.

A three-hour train ride takes one to Ninh Binh, a beautiful riverside town full of guesthouses and weekenders. The locals are up early doing their laundry, but soon the dock area is full of women who paddle the traditional row boats with their feet, taking guests on a glorious 3 hour river cruise through caves and lush countryside. Biking takes one past scenic vistas, where flocks of ducks, fish traps and rice paddies leave the noise and congestion of Hanoi far behind.

A must see excursion from Hanoi is the world famous Halong Bay, with the iconic rock formations called carsks. Even better is the lesser-known Bai Tu Bay, part of the same world heritage site, but quieter, less touristy, and cleaner. We did the two-day cruise with Indochina Junk, a stunning boat with attentive staff and fantastic food. The cruise included kayaking, swimming and a barbeque on the beach.

Walking the streets VERY early in the morning gives you the opportunity to SEE daily life unfolding

A quick flight to Da Nang in central Vietnam puts one 20 minutes from Hoi An. The well-preserved Ancient Town, once an important center of trade, is cut through with canals. The mix of architectural styles reflects Vietnam’s melting pot history. A true tourist destination, Hoi An caters to Vietnamese tourists as well as foreigners. The surrounding blocks are filled with custom-made clothing and shoe manufacturers just waiting to measure you.

A quick ten-minute cab ride or a leisurely bike ride from Hoi An takes you to An Bang Beach. This is a wonderful spot to hang out and have lunch. Traditional round fishing boats rest on the beach if the weather is not cooperating. We had a fresh and delicious meal at the open air Soul Kitchen.

one may think North Vietnam might not be the most welcoming place for Americans. The opposite is true. These resilient and resourceful people are forward looking and are eager to put their difficult history behind them as they put one foot forth into the future while preserving the best of their past.

Hanoi Is Not Easy to Navigate .

The narrow sidewalks are crumbling and packed with motorbikes, food vendors, and maybe even a tied up chicken.